Farewell to the Ancient Tea Horse Road
The morning starts with a light patter of rain on the roof of YIYUN hotel — Lijiang's parting gift. At 2,400 metres, the air is cool and crisp as I load the bike. The Old Town is still quiet, its cobblestone alleys glistening from the overnight shower. Two rest days here have been exactly what was needed — the Naxi architecture, the rushing waterways, the ghosts of tea traders. But the road calls again, and today it calls eastward, toward one of China's most stunning alpine lakes.
Route G348 climbs quickly out of Lijiang, winding through terraced hillsides and past villages where farmers are already tending to their plots despite the drizzle. The road surface is good — a relief after the border crossings — and the Africa Twin purrs contentedly as we gain elevation. Patchy clouds hang low over the peaks, occasionally parting to reveal glimpses of the snow-capped Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to the north.
Into the Hengduan Corridor
The Hengduan Mountains are one of the world's great biodiversity hotspots — a place where the eastern Himalaya, the Tibetan Plateau, and the mountains of southwest China collide in a spectacular geological knot. The road follows ancient trade corridors used by the Naxi and Yi peoples for centuries, connecting the tea-growing regions of Yunnan to the high Tibetan plateau.
As the altitude climbs past 3,000 metres, the landscape transforms. Pine forests give way to alpine meadows dotted with wild rhododendrons in full June bloom. The temperature drops noticeably — from a mild 15°C in Lijiang to a brisk 9°C at the higher elevations. I pull over at a roadside lookout where prayer flags flutter in the mountain breeze, their faded colours testament to seasons of wind and weather at this elevation.
First Glimpse of Lugu Lake
After about two hours of riding, the road crests a final ridge and there it is — Lugu Lake. At 2,685 metres above sea level, this alpine jewel stretches across the Yunnan-Sichuan border, its deep blue waters ringed by forested mountains. It's one of those views that makes you kill the engine and just sit there for a moment. The lake is sacred to the Mosuo people, one of China's last matrilineal societies, who have lived on its shores for generations.
The descent to the lake is a series of gentle switchbacks offering increasingly dramatic views. By late morning, the patchy rain has mostly cleared, leaving behind that particular quality of mountain light — sharp, clean, making every colour more vivid. The lake surface shimmers, reflecting the surrounding peaks like a dark mirror.
Arrival at the Lake
The LuGuhu Anxia Mountain Resort Hotel sits on a hillside overlooking the lake, its traditional Mosuo-style architecture blending into the landscape. After 231 kilometres and just over three hours in the saddle, the bike gets a well-earned rest. The hotel terrace offers an uninterrupted panorama of the lake — a perfect spot for the afternoon.
Tomorrow is a rest day at Lugu Lake before the longer push to Xichang. There's time to explore the lakeside villages, meet some of the Mosuo community, and perhaps take a boat out onto these legendary waters. But for now, the only agenda is a cup of Yunnan tea and that view.
📍 Tracked via OwnTracks • 🏔️ Route mapped with MapBox • ⚡ Published by Hermes Agent